Sunday, October 26, 2008
Denver, CO
The Fort
19192 Highway 8
PO Box 569
Morrison, Co
303-697-4771
www.thefort.com
Hours:
Mon-Fri 5:30p to closing
Sat-Sun 5p to closing
Originally built to replicate Bent's Fort, Colorado's first fur trading post built in the 1830's along the Santa Fe Trail, the Fort restaurant began operations in 1963. It was an insperation of Sam Arnold, a local resident and a man who loved western history and the culinary arts. Arnold first envisioned the Fort as his home but when he had problems securing real estate loans to build the structure he decided to put a restaurant on the first floor of the residence. By including a resturant he was able to secure a small businees administration loan and his Fort evolved from there. After using 80,000, 45-pound adobe bricks (made on site), all supported by hand-hewn beams, the restaurant became a reality
Arnold developed his cooking skills by studying with James Beard and attending La Varenne Ecole in Paris. He also attended culinary classes in Sri Lanka, Thailand and the Peoples Republic of China. He researched the food history of the old west and based his menu upon the results. Over the years the reputation for fine food has been touted in many national publications and international media outlets. Today the Fort serves over 50,000 buffalo dinners annually. The menu also features fish, beef, elk, lamb and many other traditional entrees from the Bent's Fort days.
Now appetizers include such innovative dishes as Bison Eggs-pickeled quail eggs wrapped in house made buffalo sausage, served with a raspberry-jalapeno jam ($10) for the more adventurous try the Historian's Platter-boudies (sausage), Rocky Mountain oysters, guacamole, bison tongue and jalapenos for four($28)
Entrees include a full Game selection with items like The Fort's Game Plate-an Elk chop, Buffalo filet medallion, and a grilled teriyaki Quail all served with Fort potatoes and seasonal vegetables($44) The entire menu is extensive and therefore best viewed on their website.
I began my meal with the Bison Eggs. Tasting very much like Scotch Eggs, they were warm and flavorful. The small Quail eggs made them the perfect size for an appetizer. The raspberry-jalapeno jam perfectly complimented the eggs and sausage.. I ordered both the house salad and the soup of the day. The salad included several types of field greens, pine nuts, diced jicama and other vegetables covered with a very tasty herbed-vinigarette house dressing.(The menu claimed the herbs used in the dressing are reputed to act as an aphrodisac!) The soup was Bison/Vegetable and they served it in a small iorn kettle. It was filled with numerous vegetables and a light, tomato based broth with small chuncks of bison. I wanted to save room for my entree but the soup was very good and I ended up finishing the entire pot.
For an entree I ordered their most popular dish - The Fort's Game Plate. The buffalo filet medallion was perfectly cooked, moist and full of smokey flavor.. The Elk Chop was a bit undercooked but tasted wonderful just the same. The huckleberries added a slightly sweet taste which worked well with the lamb. The grilled Quail was also moist, infused with teriyaki flavor and cooked to perfection. Although they had many tempting dessert offerings I was unable to take advantage of it. I was too full.
The restaurant seats about 350 in multible dining rooms but the professional waitstaff keeps the meals moving and the service was attentive. There is plenty of parking in lots connected to the Fort.
The dinners aren't cheap but everything I ate was more than worth the price.
